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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
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How does or what's the basic tune/ settings for these pos Chineseium made carburetors from ebay/Amazon?

I have a knock off 110cc pitbike that I've been avoiding for about a yr due to the worthless carb.

The one it came with installed worked perfectly until the gas barb wasn't staying inserted. JB weld couldn't keep it secured. Eventually broke. Pieces going into carb bowl.

Bought a new one. Orginal was a PZ19, left side/manual choke.

I've googled the videos, are weak. They just state turn in/out the air screw but never the default/guesstimate or close to get the engine started. The videos are when the engine does start/warmed up & runs. NEVER from it doesn't start. setting/adjustments to get it to at least sputter, bog out, stall or the "almost, wants to start, c'mon c'mon start start go"

Yesterday, I spent 6hrs messing with the PZ19 Chineseium carb. Nothing worked. In total after the original broke cleaning prepping meticulously/slowly adjusting time consuming with the Chineseium pos carb I've probably have spent about throughout the yr maybe 5 months of here & there whenever I got the chance/day off/weather permitting to deal & trying to get the damn carb to start the bikes engine TO START so I can from there deal with the damn adjustments

Everything on the bike works 100%. It's the effing carburetor.

Yes, I cleaned the new carb. Used gasoline, carb cleaner, used whisker wire/cat whisker wires or used one wire strand from brake cable to unclog/open up holes/passages.

I used an 11/64 drill bit as a spacer to level the float & float needle as 10mm space/gap from online video, new O rings, the needle clip setting is at 3. That's what the orginal had.

I tried the needle clip at top setting & worked my way down to each clip setting. None worked to get it started enough for me to adjust the screws TO HELP it stay on.

When I mean top I mean the top/rounded/non sharp pointed part of the needle. I consider that as slot 1.

Slot 5 is the very bottom of the needle.

Is there the correct/appropriate nicer better made (non Chineseium) carburetor that these type/style of 110cc engines use?

From google images, it resembles an SSR pitbike.
 

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What's your poison? Mine is 40:1
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I don't offhand no the starting specs for that carburetor but I would probably go one and a half turns out for the mixture screw and yeah I'll leave your needle jet in the middle position. Should have no problem starting. Unless it's just not getting fuel. I would probably make sure my spark is strong on my plug, those go bad all the time on those bikes, and make sure your petcock off your tank is letting enough fuel in. The bike looks in Nice condition and probably pretty new. Next step is I would probably spray some flammable silicone through the carburetor. But considering at the four stroke you could get away with using brake cleaner or anything flammable you have to shoot through the carburetor. Sometimes that helps it run enough to pull some fuel down. But again the petcock isnt stopping the fuel from coming down and you have good fuel got to be something else possibly even a gasket leak by the carburetor or intake.
And a really silly thing that happened to me once make sure your kill switch is on and not off. Sat there and tried to fire a bike for 30 minutes before I even check that.
 

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Standard starting point for the PZ19....
Mixture screw(inset screw) = all the way to softly tight, then back out 2 turns. The idle can be adjusted once it starts. remember to choke carb to start. Needle should also have the clip in the center for initial starting point. Once you adjust give it a few seconds to adapt. its not exactly instant. To tune it, set it on the kick stand and lean it slightly to lift rear tire so you can twist throttle for high rpm tuning. small mixture adjustments until you get no pops or bogs from idle to wind out speed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
following online instructions using an 11/64 drill bit as a substitute to measure/adjust float it didn't work.

I went to my drill bit & measured a few drill bits.

a 3/8 is close to 10mm as a guesstimate for float level setting/adjustment.

hope this helps other.

160824
160825


Also, been reading key words PZ19 carburetor. I'm almost done with the entire posts/threads. From what I understand, a PZ22 can be used in place of a PZ19 on a 110cc engine. Is this correct?

Can these be checked, confirmed & verified before I buy a PZ22 carburetor from ebay?
 

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That's not right and you don't have to do anything fancy all you need to do is flip the carburetor upside down and adjust the float until it sits level under its own weight.

Put the c clip into the center notch on the needle.

Turn the air mixture screw all the way in and then two and a half turns out.

Use starting fluid and try to start it it should pop off or at least try to run even without a carburetor at all if it doesn't check for spark.

If you have spark then check the compression with a compression tester if you have under 70 lb of compression then it's dead.

If you have all the prerequisites to an engine run but no running situation then it might have jumped timeing you will have to pull the covers off and check the timing...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That's not right and you don't have to do anything fancy all you need to do is flip the carburetor upside down and adjust the float until it sits level under its own weight.

Put the c clip into the center notch on the needle.

Turn the air mixture screw all the way in and then two and a half turns out.

Use starting fluid and try to start it it should pop off or at least try to run even without a carburetor at all if it doesn't check for spark.

If you have spark then check the compression with a compression tester if you have under 70 lb of compression then it's dead.

If you have all the prerequisites to an engine run but no running situation then it might have jumped timeing you will have to pull the covers off and check the timing...
Upside down float leveling is that done with the float needle installed or no float needle to adjust/level under it's own weight?
 

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You put the carburetor all together the last thing you do is adjust the float shut off height by gently bending the tang

This adjustment all it does is turns the fuel off when the carburetor is full of fuel and turns it back on when the fuel level gets low

The way you have it right now it will probably run but will always be starving for fuel.

Like I said previously even with the carburetor massively miss adjusted it should still somewhat run even if it runs like crap that tells me you have a deeper problem

If you have spark and you have compression and it still won't run then you will need to take the timing covers off and check and make sure that the timing marks all line up the timing chain can jump or snap and you will still have compression
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
On PZ22 carburetor what is the area I circled? Is that a fuel/gas line or air? How would one hook/install that & to where?
160861
160862
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Carb overflow line? Isn't that what the bottom does? So a PZ22 has 2 overflow lines?

Is that a necessary part or can one jb weld seal/seal it or just remove the hose?
 

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That is the vent you're going to want to run that down usually most motorcycles
have it exiting the bottom near the swing arm if you seal that up the carburetor will no longer fill
 

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You may have a vacuum leak at either end of the intake plenum which would cause a situation where the engine cannot produce the necessary vacuum required to properly draw fuel through the carburetor... regardless of adjustments made. I'd check the gaskets and bolt tensions and then proceed to follow the steps listed off above.
 
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