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I got the 47cc cag without brake handles. They were broken and what not. So I replaced them one by one, starting with the front. After installing the brake handle, and putting the line through the caliper it worked great.
Now Im stuck with the rear brake. I replaced the rear brake handle and put the brake line through just like I did with the front except the brake doesn't stop it much at all if any. I tried messing with the screw to adjust the tension, I tried pulling the line and tightening the caliper lever thing at different lengths of the brake line but nothing. When I messed with the adjustment screw it barely held the bike any. But if I tried to screw in clockwise with the screw I would lose brake entirely. I thought I understood how it worked but I guess not. Help anyone? This has been kicking my butt for weeks. marcelo
Thanks.
 

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But who prays for Satan?
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It's Ok, don't worry, cable operated disk brakes are EASY to fix up...

I'll make a photo sticky today or tomorrow, that should make it really easy to get them set.

but hopefully someone who types faster than me will be here with some advice sooner than my guide will be ready.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's Ok, don't worry, cable operated disk brakes are EASY to fix up...

I'll make a photo sticky today or tomorrow, that should make it really easy to get them set.

but hopefully someone who types faster than me will be here with some advice sooner than my guide will be ready.
Thanks photos are great.:D
 

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This caliper is from a Mid-bike, but they all are pretty similar as far as adjusting them....

So, lets get started....

We use what is called a "Floating" caliper, lots of cars and trucks use them too, they are not the best (multi-piston fixed caliper's are) but they will stop our little bikes just fine.

Step one, there is a single cable going from the brake handle to the caliper, up by the lever is a slack adjuster, just to remove any cable slack, we want the caliper to move as soon as we start to pull the handle, but not so tight that the brake doesn't fully release, I would normally bring the slack adjuster all the way in, so it's as small as possible, (I'll take a picture of that too if it's needed)

Then follow the cable right back to the caliper, on the "Cable-Arm" you should see the nut that secures the cable to the caliper cable-arm, you can loosen that nut and pull the cable tight, to remove the slack, and while holding the cable tight tighten that nut, Yes, cable slack done! (the nut I'm talking about is at the end of the arm on the bottom right of this picture)

Ok, I'll add the next steps in a 2nd post... Be Right Back!
 

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But who prays for Satan?
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Here comes the fun part!

So, as the brake pads get smaller, we need to be able to squeeze down more on them, so we have a "piston adjustment" screw, you use a wrench to loosen the nut, then an Allen key in the middle to rotate the black screw, this will move the piston in or out, since your's is not braking, I'd bet you need to clamp down on it a little bit.

Also, if you peek in there you should be able to see if there is brake pad material left, I'll snap some more pictures of that a little later.

Basically, with the rear wheel off the ground spin it 360 degrees by hand, make sure the brakes arent binding, then loosen the nut and bring the piston in a little bit at a time, till you feel them start to drag a little, then back it out a tiny bit, tighten the lock down nut and give it a try.

Here are some pictures I took just for you!

Let me know if you need any more pictures, or information. :thumbsup::D:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
"Step one, there is a single cable going from the brake handle to the caliper, up by the lever is a slack adjuster, just to remove any cable slack, we want the caliper to move as soon as we start to pull the handle, but not so tight that the brake doesn't fully release, I would normally bring the slack adjuster all the way in, so it's as small as possible, (I'll take a picture of that too if it's needed)"

Can I get a picture of this?
 

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I like to put a thick washer between the brake pad and the piston that pushes it to the disc. Works much better than stock, once you get them adjusted correctly.
 

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Like Auch said, a washer under the piston can buy you a bit more time, but at the end of the day, it's a pretty good sign that it might be time for some new brake pads!

Now, no way dude! I cant take one or two more pictures (KIDDING :D) It's sorta one of my jobs around here to try and be helpful!

Here is a normal looking one from a ninja 250, and the crazy setup from a C1 I'm rebuilding.

I'm betting you just need some new pads! just like I put on a friends car last week.
 

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Nick, your too nice, you want to work on my 8 bikes,lol,lol.
Jei17, also on the brake arm and the piece you run the cable thru I put a washer before the nut when your tighten it, it helps keep it from twisting, I hold the cable just above the arm and piece that holds the cables.
I got tired of playing with the cable brakes, and got a front & rear hydralic set for $55, bolts right up, 2 stock calipers are $30+, installing it on my favorite A2 Cag.
 

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Trained Chimp
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Thanks Nick. Im gonna borrow your double pull idea. I just built a motorized bike. I was trying to figure out how to pull both brakes with one lever. That looks down and dirty. I like it.
 

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Thanks Nick. Im gonna borrow your double pull idea. I just built a motorized bike. I was trying to figure out how to pull both brakes with one lever. That looks down and dirty. I like it.

Believe it or not John, That is the factory setup, what a hack job.

If I'm being honest, two up front was a big pain in my butt, get one dialed, and the other goes out, fix the bad one and the other side doesn't work, it's hard to tell which side is messing up without manually disabling one at a time too.

On my bike, I bought a set of two finger mountain bike levers, (Long Pull) and ran one for the rear (dang, it's nice) and ran the other one to a single front caliper, and keep it dialed in, it can pull stoppies no problem, but I still want to go find EPR and Sneak away with those hydraulic brakes he just got!

:D:thumbsup:
 

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Hey, Nick, while I was searching through some mountain bike levers at a bicycle recycling shop here in town, I found a dual-pull lever. Not like yours, which is side-by-side, but over-and-under. I'm planning on eventually running it on my bobber Cag once I get some more work done on the rear brakes.

And I got EPR's home address if you wanna go roll him some night for those hydraulics ..... :D
 

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Epr and Cam2 probably either have big dogs or big guns! I wpuld be to scared to try to rob either one. Lol. Spyguy Ive seen those levers. If youre useing them for front brakes they also sale short brake cables with y's on them. Im planing to use one for a dual front brake on a cag. I really like those hydro brakes Epr got also.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well Nick...I got brakes!
But yea I wouldn't be surprised if the bike starts calling for new pads now.
I wasn't used to the brakes working and I flipped forwards and had the bike land on me. :eek:

But I got up, scuffed away the dirt, applied some neosporin, slapped on a band aid, and I was good to go. :cool:

So thanks for aiding in my near death guys, kidding kidding. :p
 

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Well Nick...I got brakes!
But yea I wouldn't be surprised if the bike starts calling for new pads now.
I wasn't used to the brakes working and I flipped forwards and had the bike land on me. :eek:

But I got up, scuffed away the dirt, applied some neosporin, slapped on a band aid, and I was good to go. :cool:

So thanks for aiding in my near death guys, kidding kidding. :p
Awesome! <----not the crashing part but, you can thank my Grandpa, and Upjohn, while working for them, he "discovered" topical cortisone cream (Neosporin) back in the 50's, long story short, never discover anything truly amazing on someone else's dime, let alone it their lab!

Glad to hear you got those brakes working so dang fast!
 

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Great advice Nick............Good pics too..............

Awesome looking brakes EPR........I almost got a set on ebay with a whole slew of parts but got beat out in the last 10 seconds....lol

Nice Job getting it fixed Jei17.....Im glad youre not seriously injured.......
 

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Nick, I have that dual brake thingy on my C1, you have to pull the cables out off the cases to get them off the bike. Found out when I stole my left front brake on the C1 to the new MTA4 front forks I got for the Lucky 7. You can buy the double cable holder w/ cables online pretty cheap.
Cam2, PB Parts has the best price I have seen on those brakes, w/ 10% off they were $50 for the set.
 

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Man, and here I paid like $2 for the dual-pull lever I got ......
 
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