Reedblock mount stripped?

On a Cag there M5 x 0.8 x 20-25mm long, you can tap it to M6 x 1.0 with the right drill and tap. H/F tools has metric tap & dies set cheap onsale. For $20 onsale can get an SAE & Metric set together.

thanks epr, i was hoping to avoid this but oh well atleast it was on the spare motor.

You could drill & tap all 4 holes to 6mm, and the Int. manifold & reed block holes. My billet case Cag cases have 6mm threads for the Int. and reed block unit. You need the right size drill, less than 6mm, need material to tap threads into. The holes go all the way thru.

i was thinking about it...helicoil is another option

Them kits can be exspensive with drill, tap, coil etc. For alittle more you can get a whole Metric Tap & Die Set w/ drills, easy outs, center punch and stuff I use everyday. You might be able to clean up the threads with an M5 x 0.8 tap.

I just used my friends HF tap and die set. M6x1.0

Yeah, it's not a big deal, M5 to M6 is .040" bigger.

stealthc9 said:

I just used my friends HF tap and die set. M6x1.0

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Easy as pie!!!!!! Nice job getting it done...I retapped all my reedblock holes to M6 1.0 in my reeded engines for the same exact reason of the problem you had..My bottom left hole just stripped out for no reason...My guess would be that there was an inexperienced chinese kid working on hundreds maybe thousands of engine cases with the same problem/defect and never caught it.....

Yeah, the seller just sent out a new engine for me as well. When I stopped in at a local machine shop, they wanted like $60-$70 since it was an unfamilier engine to them. and they weren't sure if they'd have to use a small vaccum to get shards of metal out.

I told the seller he was like alright don't worry i have to send u another engine. so now i'm getting a second engine.

Now i just need to fab up some chain adjusters since my spare cag has one, so i'm going to try one of these engines with No head gasket, just high temp rtv, then check the squish. if it's good i'll run it stock with race gas and a stock modified muffler. Then whichever engine is faster will go on the blue bike with IP2 pipe, and richer jetting.

If you use RTV silicon it has to be thin, thats why I use Yamabond or Hondabond, it's real thin and dries fast and is rubbery, I spread it thin with my finger on the cases and drop the cylinder, great for intake gaskets and stuff too. If the RTV is .020" to .025" thick your back to where you started. You can get chain adj. for a few bucks on line. PB Parts in Florida should have them.

Well i got my racebike back together, and got a new suit,boots, gloves and lid. But i had to adjust the carb (the choke was hitting part of the frame....)
And the stupid chinese bolts stripped out.
If anyone gets a delorto replica, make sure u replace the mounting bolt and nut. this **** thing is ****ing me off and im pretty close to grabbing the stock carb and shoving that on there n jetting the **** outta it.

Never broke a carb bolt, but many others, I replace all the important bolts w/ 8.8 grade 5 bolts, and some 15 SS grade 8 bolts.

Yeah when i get my second motor in, im going to tear it down, smooth all the ports upgrade ALL the bolts and threads.
I'm glad that it's a delorto replica because it won't take much to fix the bolt just gotta cut the head off. Gotta get to harbor freight and buy one of the dremel kits tho.

They have some great deals right now. My 2.5hp-21 gal. air tank compressor was $149.99 onsale 2 months ago. I have a 1/4" drive electric ratchet, and long T handle metric allen wrenches, I use alot. They have a SAE-Metric 3/8-1/4" drive ratchet socket set for a few bucks right now too, i have one I paid $8 before,lol.
At davesmotors got a set of long metric allen drives, hex shaft fits in your drill or.....

2nd motor came in yesterday, as well as carbon fiber reeds, and 62t sprocket. gonna see about setting the squish soon and getting it set up to really be competitive with the blata 2.6, I can already smoke the 2.5 in the corners.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=562703777084717&l=702142773797096039


So after break in for about and hour or so. Tighten the headbolts down again.

Was the engine hot when you retorqued. I do mine cold. Mine are probably all over tightened,lol. I use 1/4" SS split lock washers under all my bolts, #10 washers fit 5mm. The top edge digs into the bolt head the bottom edge digs into the alum, it's no going anywhere, one or two piece head, clutch housing, alum starter cover,etc.

no the bike had no compression so it wouldn't start, so i pulled the exhaust off and tightened the head down to 12 ft/lbs with some blue locktite.
I'll have to get some lock washers I didnt think about that.

With thread sealer, you don't need washers, it can make it harder to get them out later. I use air tools to get stuff off, 250lb wrench, Bam, or it rips the head off the bolt,lol.