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Anyone upgrade their rsf650 front forks with suspension? Any other upgrades to suggest for more power and torque? Just got mine delivered today and have been following a few threads but am still unsure about which upgrades are best for performance and extending battery usage per charge, fast chargers, batteries, etc...

New to this forum, would appreciate some help to mod this already cool bike to even better expectations.

Thanks!
 

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I'm hoping to upgrade the non suspension front fork on my rsf650 (mx650 replacement fork is on it's way, hope it allows for an easy switch, suggestions welcome if it doesn't work out). I also upgraded to a 48v/1600w/controller/throttle w/harness which would be great if the motor sprocket wasn't a 11 tooth, T8F chain specific (stock is for #25 chain, right?). Pardon my bumbling (obvious, huh?). I thought I had researched enough and assumed compatibilities that aren't always a given. I'm new to this as a hobby that I can see myself really getting into. These forums have been very helpful, which probably increased the over confidence but not the experience. Thanks for any help and guidance. Looking forward to the journey, not just the destination.
 

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I also upgraded to a 48v/1600w/controller/throttle w/harness which would be great if the motor sprocket wasn't a 11 tooth, T8F chain specific (stock is for #25 chain, right?).
its not clear from your post... did you buy a new motor too? also what about batteries, curious as to what chemistry you plan on running and if you're sticking with SLA then where are you going to mount the 4th batt?

swapping out the motor sprocket is easy and there are many online sources for replacement sockets. swapping out the fork - i'm not sure it'll work, and if the forks are different lengths then you will likely change how your bike steers.
 

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The 48v/1600w/controller/throttle w/harness is a complete "pre-wired kit" from hyperpowersports (.com)...motor/controller/throttle (plug and play setup). However, I thought the 11-tooth sprocket on the new motor would match the 11-tooth of the original motor without considering the difference in type of chain (again, I'm learning). I understand I could just switch the motor sprockets but (1). the new sprocket is really on there tight and I don't want to force it off just yet to avoid damaging the post (I'm trying to recognize my mechanical limitations) and (2). I read somewhere on here that increasing the sprocket on the rear with more teeth would increase the torque/favorable-ratio (goal#1) for more off-road than just on-road fun. So I'd rather change the ratio at the rear-sprocket while also matching the new motor-sprocket and chain application. I purchased an additional 12v (12ah) battery to complete the 48v upgrade (in series) and could use advice on wire gauge and connectors too. Goal #2 is maintaining the original look of the Razor RSF650 as much as possible although it is definitely getting painted or wrapped or both to really personalize it. Goal#3 would be to increase the ride comfort since I want off-road ability (hence the front-suspension upgrade). The distance between this "wish-list" and "project done" may take some time and I'll discover the need for necessary mods along the way. For example: I will most likely have to move/reconfigure the motor-mount bracket due to the wire harness from the new motor needing the room, replace the front disc to accommodate the new caliper mount position of the new forks, verify that all the geometry is aligned, etc....

Yep, I dove in without checking the depth of this pond....luckily I haven't snapped my neck yet....I am feeling more secure with knowing others like you are out there to help. The more I have to do to complete the desired upgrades is where my real learning will occur which will help me understand the finished product way better....

Thanks again!
 

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(1). the new sprocket is really on there tight and I don't want to force it off just yet to avoid damaging the post (I'm trying to recognize my mechanical limitations) and (2). I read somewhere on here that increasing the sprocket on the rear with more teeth would increase the torque/favorable-ratio (goal#1) for more off-road than just on-road fun. So I'd rather change the ratio at the rear-sprocket while also matching the new motor-sprocket and chain application.
nice i have that same motor from them but the version w a mounting plate - its going into a razor dune buggy but i plan on getting another for a MX500 build...

you probably already know this but just in case - the motor sprocket is reverse threaded, clockwise to loosen. the motor shaft has two flats grooved on opposite sides to allow you to grip the shaft while installing and removing the sprocket.

is the wheel sprocket 80T? limited options if you want a bigger sprocket in #25. there's an 89T that will bolt on directly, 90T currie sprocket that would require modification, anything bigger will be a custom order...bigger rear sprocket needs more chain too

if you keep the motor sprocket you could also switch out the rear sprocket and chain to 8mm (T8F) ... just a thought as there would be more gearing options available.
 

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I purchased an additional 12v (12ah) battery to complete the 48v upgrade (in series) and could use advice on wire gauge and connectors too.
my bad forgot about this one... for this application 12awg would be nice, i think 14awg is stock? consider using silicone
insulated wires, the kind used in RC. easier to work with and route compared to the stiffer vinyl insulation.

for batt connections i prefer the non-insulated open barrel crimp terminals , 6.3mm/0.250in in size. then heat shrink over the terminal. i've invested in quality crimpers so would recommend that too, its worth it to me not to have do re-do bad connections from poor crimps

for connectors there are alot of options including RC connectors, anderson power poles are good too, but if you plan on doing alot of wiring it makes sense to standardize the connectors so you can easily swap out when needed.

if you need a good source for terminals and connectors let me know, i'm not sure if this forum allows posting links to other sites?
 

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nice i have that same motor from them but the version w a mounting plate - its going into a razor dune buggy but i plan on getting another for a MX500 build...

you probably already know this but just in case - the motor sprocket is reverse threaded, clockwise to loosen. the motor shaft has two flats grooved on opposite sides to allow you to grip the shaft while installing and removing the sprocket.

is the wheel sprocket 80T? limited options if you want a bigger sprocket in #25. there's an 89T that will bolt on directly, 90T currie sprocket that would require modification, anything bigger will be a custom order...bigger rear sprocket needs more chain too

if you keep the motor sprocket you could also switch out the rear sprocket and chain to 8mm (T8F) ... just a thought as there would be more gearing options available.
First of all, thank you for all your help here, much appreciated. I thought I ordered the motor with the correct mounting configuration but received the one with the mount on the side which interferes with the tire clearance, nothing a grinder can’t fix and too much hassle to return. It also has a very sturdy wire harness that will allow add ons like headlights, brake lights, horn....maybe later...avoiding any extra drain on power. I became aware of the reverse threading on the spot as I tried to dry fit the motor. Can I get the 89T rear sprocket in an T8F setup that’s a direct fit? I think I’d like to keep that chain/sprocket combination for durability/reliability . Send a link for the rear sprocket if you please. I’m already thinking of the next build with the quad or trike setup....but it has to wait.

I think I ordered the comparable stock battery but will most likely upgrade quickly to a lithium and charger if it all works out after I finish the mods (to save on weight). What gauge wire is appropriate? Send any and all sources if you really don’t mind, I think this is far from over. I didn’t think I’d get this much support so early on and it’s motivating me to lean in more.
 

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for this application i would use the controller's current rating to determine the appropriate wire gauge. hyper doesnt provide much technical info on their site, but because i know all these controllers are coming from the same factory i'm going w the specs listed here:

http://www.electricscooterparts.com/hookup/SPD-481600BLDC.pdf

so assuming controller is rated at 40a then 12AWG silicone wire should be well with limits for that current rating, just make sure the batt harness is fused for 40a also.

i've not seen nor am aware of a T8F version of that 89T sprocket, only found that one in #25:

Electric Scooter and Bicycle Sprockets - ElectricScooterParts.com

you can try searching for one on ebay or aliexpress just make sure the sprocket is 4 bolt and the inner bore fits on the freewheel clutch to which the sprocket is attached.

i would definitely postpone hooking up the accessory connections until later, and only hook up the required connections: motor, battery, throttle, on/off switch. bench test with these first. if all components are working fine, then your setup should be ready for the charger and power indicator connects.

personally i avoid using the brake connect because under certain conditions i believe it can cause controller failure, had it happen to me several times with the controller failing on WO throttle...not good! this has never happened when i leave the brake connect off. most of my rides dont have sensors or rear brake lights to take advantage of the other controller connects, but even if available i would not use them as it helps to simplify troubleshooting when you only have the required connections.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the links....very helpful to know where to go for parts that others know and trust. I agree, hyper is not the best at providing a lot of support....sometimes I think they are talking in code...they offered to find a good sprocket setup for me but now I only hear crickets...

I will go with the 40a/12awg silicone per your suggestion. Rather than try to find an T8F rear sprocket, I'll switch the motor sprocket to the #25 and get the direct fit 89T for more torque. I want to eventually ride this thing..haha...

I don't intend to hook up any auxiliary pieces to this rig....keeping it simple for the reasons you stated....and I also thought about keeping the brake-sensors disconnected too because I've read about similar issues especially during turns and over rough terrain....the simpler the better...I'll collect all the parts you've helped me with in the next week and start getting this thing together.

Thanks again for all your help and I'll be in touch soon (probably sooner than later with questions I'm sure I forgot to ask)....
 

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no problem glad to help, seems you're ready to go and with that setup i too would be itchin to ride it sooner than later. ESP is pricey so i have other sources for parts but they do have a few items that are hard to find elsewhere...

let us know how it goes, those are major upgrades you've planned so should be fun!
 

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I'm looking forward to it, I've ordered all extras today and will have a long weekend next week to hopefully accomplish quite a bit in order to get it assembled, bench tested, disassembled, painted/wrapped (the big unknown), reassembled and on the road/path....and not the ER.....

The rear 89T sprocket was unavailable, do you have another source/link to get that order started? Thanks!
 

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here ya go:

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/89-Tooth-25H-54MM-Rear-Sprocket-Razor-EVO-X-Treme-IZIP-E-Gas-Scooter-Go-Kart/501791_1994092951.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.3ba37da3RQ4GLO

if you're not familiar ali is like china's ebay. comparing the two the prices are usually lower than the same items on ebay. communication can be a challenge but many of the sellers are fluent in english. just stick with sellers with high ratings/positive reviews and quick replies to your emails and your transactions should be smooth. i've been a member for a few yrs now and have no complaints.

between ebay, aliexpress, and craigslist i can find just about everything i need for all my hobbies lol
 

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I'm gonna trust you with that, I ordered the rear sprocket but won't see it for a few weeks probably...but I'm sure it'll get here. I'm hoping to get all the critical pieces by next weekend for the bench test, that will be a tense moment. Getting that rear sprocket later in the process won't interfere with the real test of my setup. Now I have to worry about color schemes and wrap choices....I'm looking for unique to be sure. I hope to get good feedback....
 

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I bench-tested the new motor/controller/wire-harness and it works very well. I actually laid the bike down due to the unexpected power output of the new motor and upgrade to 48v and deleting the safety cut-off on the hand brake (an embarrassing moment for sure). I'll try to be more cognizant of that new feature...haha. My only problem now is that the new 48v charger doesn't indicate that it's fully charging the batteries, could this be a connection problem? Let me explain. The Hyperpowersports 48v upgrade kit had the charge port connection (from the controller) clearly labeled but when I connected the stock charging port to that terminal, the positive and negative wires were opposite of the factory charge-port connector. I switched them to match, thinking this would avoid any undesired charging results (none so far). The light on the charger stays red and never turns green indicating a full charge and I've left it connected for days. Should I switch the positive and negative lines at the connector terminal coming from the controller? I'm reluctant to just do it to see but would hate to burn up my batteries or controller or myself....any suggestions or is there a danger to switch the charge wires back to how it came? I'm unsure if this is on purpose/for a reason. There was already enough power in the batteries to bench-test and take a brief ride down the street with no indication of anything wrong on the bike itself. I realize it may be the charger but thought I'd ask before I try to exchange it. Thanks for your input.
 

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The light on the charger stays red and never turns green indicating a full charge and I've left it connected for days. Should I switch the positive and negative lines at the connector terminal coming from the controller? I'm reluctant to just do it to see but would hate to burn up my batteries or controller or myself....any suggestions or is there a danger to switch the charge wires back to how it came?
under no circumstance should you cross those charger wires... more than likely it'll fry the controller the moment current passes through. i'm not 100% sure but fairly certain controllers at this price point do not have polarity protection on the charger leads.

i'd grab a digital multi-meter, check the voltage directly at the power leads from the batteries, re-connect the charger for a few hours then re-test the voltage. if there's no change i'd consider testing using another charger because as you stated it may very well be a charger issue.

and its fairly common for chargers to fail, to the point that i keep several chargers of varying voltages on hand just in case...then again it could be the batteries. did you mix/match new batts with the stock batts?
 

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I'm hoping to upgrade the non suspension front fork on my rsf650 (mx650 replacement fork is on it's way, hope it allows for an easy switch, suggestions welcome if it doesn't work out). I also upgraded to a 48v/1600w/controller/throttle w/harness which would be great if the motor sprocket wasn't a 11 tooth, T8F chain specific (stock is for #25 chain, right?). Pardon my bumbling (obvious, huh?). I thought I had researched enough and assumed compatibilities that aren't always a given. I'm new to this as a hobby that I can see myself really getting into. These forums have been very helpful, which probably increased the over confidence but not the experience. Thanks for any help and guidance. Looking forward to the journey, not just the destination.
Anyone have a front fork upgrade???
 

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If you want to upgrade the RSF650 front fork, go with the Razor MX650 replacement forks (found a used one on eBay). This will fit directly to the bike itself without any modification. HOWEVER, you will need to replace the brake disc from the MX650 which also bolts directly on in place of the RSF650 disc. THEN, you'll have to adjust (bend) the caliper bracket to allow for the RSF650 stock tire increased width from the MX650 stock tire. Just be careful how much or how little you bend it away from the hub, spacing is crucial. I learned the hard way by pounding and readjusting it a lot before i got it in the right position in relationship to the mounted caliper and tire hub. Be aware that the RSF650 tire is going to be a tight fit in the MX650 front fork but it will roll freely without any binding. Forget about using any front fender though. I upgraded to 1600W and 48V and it takes off if you're not very aware of your throttle control as you roll it on. The added front suspension (and decent rear suspension) to the RSF650 is awesome, along with the added power. I also added a larger rear sprocket for more torque...which this thing has plenty of now. I'm just under 200lbs and I can get up to 30mph on this bike now (on level ground). I'm still anxious to get this off-road (as was my original plan for the upgrades). I'd also like to switch to lithium ion battery but am waiting to "use up" the lead-acid batteries (4 - 12V in series) as much as possible before investing in it. This will also lighten the load a little too. I ended up stripping all the plastics off of it and going with the naked frame look. I wrapped the upper frame in camo-tape and wrapped the original seat with saddle colored leather and found a camo-pattern tank-bag (for motorcycles) as the catch-all for phone, flashlights, battery brick/charger for phone, small tools, etc) that mounts perfectly in the old "tank" position. The stacked batteries are bare and open but I'm using some aluminum sheet metal to make a shroud around them. This project has taken a while but it's been a good learning tool in engineering, electrical and fabrication skills. I doubt I'll win any prizes but that's not what it was about anyways. I'll post some pics soon.
 
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