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The Electric X9

21K views 110 replies 14 participants last post by  jfriend 
#1 ·
Well, as a few know, I have purchased the Electric X9, and after a hard wait, I now have it sitting downstairs! I have yet to actually get it outside and give her a test run, becuase of rain. Info I can share with you without having driven it yet, are some features that I was surprised to see on it ,since the advertising doesn't talk about them.

It has working headlights AND turn signals (built into the cat eyes).

It has a horn.

The charger is fan cooled, and turns itself off once charging is complete.

When you turn the key for power and kick the lights on, there is a guage between the speedometer and voltmeter, which illuminates to tell you that the power is on, lights are on, and when the turn signals are activated (much like what you would see in a car).

This bike is an absolute MONSTER! It's obviously got a lot of weight, but the actual size of it really astounded me. The thing is friggin huge! I'm about 5'7", 140lbs. and contrary to some pocket bikes, I don't look incredibly out of proportion to it. Hopefully by tomorrow I will have some pics of it posted here. Unfortunately, until the rain stops, my hands are kinda tied.

There will be a TON of mods done to this baby, once I replenish the $400+ I spent on it. It will have a new motor and controller, a mounted tail light, a double neon/led pack, and (if I can get another set) a second set of farrings with a custom new paint job. I will post more info once I can get the bike out and really ride.
 
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#2 ·
you really don't have to swap out the motor... the one on there it a very good motor... i know the motor... lots of torque and with the bigger controller you will feel that torque....just add another battery it will handle the extra 12 volts... but don't do that til you get a 48volt controller on it....you will be close to 40 on the bike when all is done... your buds will be shocked...oh and one more thing i know the lights and blinkers are cool but if you use them while you are riding they will drain your batteries quickly which means less ride time...sorry to hear it's raining there i know it must be killing you having that beast there and not being able to run it :(
 
#8 ·
Well, I haven't had enough room to get the speedometer to show 30mph, but it sure feels like 30 when it shows 15. I need to take it somewhere with A LOT of room. The ride is INCREDIBLY SMOOTH! The shocks absorbed everything that's been thrown at it so far (sewer caps, etc), without me feeling hardly anything. I did ride with lights on and used the signal, just for the vid (kinda hard to see though), but you have switches for both on the left hand side. The only negative I've come across so far is adjusting the chain. It's a reel pain in the *** to do, and seems to need it more often than I thought it would. Other than that, it is an EXCEPTIONAL bike, well built, very comfortable, and fast. I really think I'm gonna toss a digital speedometer on it though, since I doubt the stock is very accurate. As far as upgrading is concerned, I'm really not sure if I have enough room to add an additional 12v battery. The only spot I see for it would be actually sitting on the ferring itself, infront of the frame holding the original 3. Maybe Mr. Exon can gimme an idea about that... lol. I'll get a picture of the frame up here soon so you guys can get an idea of the size.
 
#9 ·
Brendan81103 said:
The only spot I see for it would be actually sitting on the ferring itself, infront of the frame holding the original 3. Maybe Mr. Exon can gimme an idea about that... lol. I'll get a picture of the frame up here soon so you guys can get an idea of the size.
post a pic soon, i just got done with the last weld i needed to renforce my razor, yepper i got 4 12v/12ah cells in the bike, that is crazy right, it took a lot, almost all day... so i have a lot of free time on my hands now since the bike is finaly done, so i can help you no problem,,,,

did you think of downgrading the 18ah cells to 12ah, this will drasticly afect run time, but you may be able to run 60v at 12ah like that...that should take any one to 40mph
 
#10 ·
Well, first off, the info I see shows that they are 17ah... second, I don't have anywhere near the amount of money to spend on upgrades at the moment... I really want to, but I'm married with a 3yr old daughter, so the money spent on the bike itself is starting to kick me in the butt... The upgrades will come, but in time... I really appreciate everyone's interest in helping mod this monster, but I need extra funds which aren't always readily available...
 
#12 ·
then dont wory about upgrades bro ride it till you can, but i will have to stop by in thhe next couple weeks to give you some pointers and any info you need help with at the time......

also i will show you how i charge my bike, put aside enuff money and tell me when you have over 75$ to spend, i will help you set your bike up for a speed charge set up that charges the bike in less then 1.5-2.5 hours, my 4)12v/12ah gells charge in less then 1.5hours,

the only thing is you have to make a battery disconect to charge from, but it will also act as a safty device, incase your bike malfunctions you can just pull and the power is shut off, dont worry about this untill i stop by and show you my set up, so you will have an understandence of what it looks like, then you will be able to ride your bike a couple times a day instead of just once,maby twice like it sounds like now....lol, pm me some info on were you live and your phone # so we can make plans for a day to race our bikes, should be fun
 
#13 ·
Well, I haven't ridden it long enough to drain the battery (married, kid), but it says that the riding time is 1.5 hrs, which is a heck of a jump from a stock Razor. I am interested in setting it up for a speed charge (just heard about this a week ago), but it'll take a bit to get some extra money aside... kids are friggin expensive! LOL BTW, as far as I understand it, this bike is manufactured by a company named "Bravo". Funny thing, I can't find their website... anyone know what it is? I've tried to google just about every variant (Bravo Pocket Bike, Bravo Bike, etc.) and I don't seem to come up with anything...
 
#14 · (Edited)
Brendan81103 said:
Well, I haven't ridden it long enough to drain the battery (married, kid), but it says that the riding time is 1.5 hrs, which is a heck of a jump from a stock Razor. I am interested in setting it up for a speed charge (just heard about this a week ago), but it'll take a bit to get some extra money aside... kids are friggin expensive! LOL BTW, as far as I understand it, this bike is manufactured by a company named "Bravo". Funny thing, I can't find their website... anyone know what it is? I've tried to google just about every variant (Bravo Pocket Bike, Bravo Bike, etc.) and I don't seem to come up with anything...
that is a impoters name i think,

i made this vid for you, it is kinda dark, couse it was in the afternoon acouple minutes ago, lots of shadows in the house, i will have a nother one done soon outside, but i have to get some of the fab jobs i have do do for the other people in our club, i cut my tour short and had t comehome from heat stroke and my roadrash was getting ichy as all hell...so i now have some time for mr bike and the club....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEO1NVPRXRs
 
#16 ·
ok, off topic of upgrades... I'm starting to get slightly P I S S E D off! I have had to adjust the chain just about every time I've ridden this thing... Earlier today, I built a stand for it (2 hrs) and tightened the chain as much as I could (HUGE PAIN). I took it out to get some vid of dusk time riding and brought it up to about 22mph indicated. I heard the chain skip a couple of times while riding. I drove passed the cam, stopped, turned around going about 7mph to pull into the driveway, and the chain popped off! Since I can't find the manufacturer to get help with this, and the manual reads like converted verbatim chinese, I was wondering if you guys know what the heII I can do about this... I'll never be able to get the thing goin full speed if the chain can't stay put!
 
#18 ·
Brendan81103 said:
tightened the chain as much as I could
you should never tighten the chain as much as you can... it needs a little play in it the more you tighten the more you stretch the chain... believe it or not the chain stretches...but i think the problem is themotor and rear sprocket is not lined up right .... that is why you hear the skipping.. if they where lined up even with a loose chain it would still stay on get a straight edge and check to see if the sprockets line up flush line.. if not work it til they line up.....
 
#19 ·
that bike is made in china and i'am sure that bravo is just the importer.usually they will give the bike a couple of different names varying to importer too importer.but you should'nt worry.
since our bike are made in china,you have too check the bike over.make sure that your pinion and sprocket is lined up.you don't want it too tight at least have some play on the chain.plus you don't want the chain too tight,it will work the motor and slow you down.tighten the chain tensioner first before you tighten the wheels.also check if the rear sprocket is centered on the wheel.
 
#20 ·
if i understand him he is saying the x9 has a defective rear suspencion alinment with the chain, when the suspencion gets compressed it loosens the chain up, this is not good at all, cuz it will couse all sorts of problems later,broken teath, bent motor shaft, over streched chain.....

like i said bro pm me your address and i will weld you a spring style chain tensiner, this way you can leave the chain a litle loose for the suspensions play.....this is not comen with these china bikes, i think it was that way from the factory, you see they are probly not an I.S.O. sertfied company so they dont have any form of Quality control and let it go with out checking if the rear was made right, your bike is not broken nore is it junk, you will just have to fix the chain thing....i have no problrm helping you on this, also call up a lawn mower store (a couple of them) see if they have any spring tupe chain tensioners, they have a gear(#25) on the end of a 2-4" arm that conects and pivets from the frame, a spring is then mounted to give tension, this would be mounted underthe chain. if you can find one it should cost about 15-17$, if you can find a #25 gear that we can put bushings in we can make our own tensioner....
 
#21 ·
Ok, assuming you guys can see the pic, #2 is obviously the nut and bolt that hold the wheel on which moves back and forward, tightening and loosening the chain. #3 is a small arm attached to the wheel, that also has a small nut and bolt, which attaches to the swing arm. #1 is a tiny bolt that attaches to #2, with a small nut and bracket pointing towards the rear, which basically looks like it's only pupose is to prevent movement of the wheel. #1 and #2 are on both sides of the bike, but #3 is only on the right side and not the left. I loosened all of these, pulled the tire back as far as I could, and tightened everything down. The chain had about 1cm of play. The reason I did this is because it seems like no matter how tight I make this, it loosens back to about 1.5 inches of play after half a block of riding. Then I start hearing the skipping... I really appreciate everyone's help with this, since I'm kinda a newb... I'm not quite sure how exactly a tension spring works even though you guys explained it... sounded greek to me lol. I just for the life of me can't figure out why the chain continuously would loosen. I'm gonna check out Aprodan's suggestion in a little while. Hopefully that's all it is! It's just kinda aggrevating spending that much money and stuff like this happens... GRRR...
 

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#22 ·
this is how you set the back wheel up:

loosen #3,2R,1R,2L,1L

now center the wheel, then tighten #2R,2L till the wheel is were you want it and the chain has just enuff tnsion, but not tight(it can be a little loose)

now tighten the axle bolts #3R,3L, dont torque them down, just get them tight.

now, tighten #2R,2L till chain has a 1/2-3/4" slop to it(check for slop center between front and rear sprocket of the chain)

go back to Axle bolts #3R,3L now torque them down, till you see the frame rails start to deform a little, but dont over do it, a litle frame worping is ok, it will go back to normal after they get loosened next time(just dont get crazy and crush your frame rails.....

now that the chain and wheel is done set the last screw #1, i think it is for your caliper right?

if this dose not help, then you will need a spring chain tensiner,
i would like to see your bike my self though, couse i think i can help you out and best thing i do it for out club here, your not a member yet but since you have a bike now i consider you one any ways so any help you need that i can do that you cant do, i can help you or at least try and sinse you live near by (45min) it ant nothing to me to drive ther and help you in person....couse trust me i realy want to race you bad since you live so close to me, and if your bike isnt running propper i feel the need to help you out so it will be an even race, right? lol
 
#23 · (Edited)
i messed up the numbers danget! re read this please

mr_exon said:
this is how you set the back wheel up:

loosen #3,2R,1R,2L,1L

now center the wheel, then tighten #1R,1L till the wheel is were you want it and the chain has just enuff tnsion, but not tight(it can be a little loose)

now tighten the axle bolts #2R,2L, dont torque them down, just get them tight.

now, tighten #1R,1L till chain has a 1/2-3/4" slop to it(check for slop center between front and rear sprocket of the chain)

go back to Axle bolts #2R,2L now torque them down, till you see the frame rails start to deform a little, but dont over do it, a litle frame worping is ok, it will go back to normal after they get loosened next time(just dont get crazy and crush your frame rails.....

now that the chain and wheel is done set the last screw #3, i think it is for your caliper right?

if this dose not help, then you will need a spring chain tensiner,
i would like to see your bike my self though, couse i think i can help you out and best thing i do it for out club here, your not a member yet but since you have a bike now i consider you one any ways so any help you need that i can do that you cant do, i can help you or at least try and sinse you live near by (45min) it ant nothing to me to drive ther and help you in person....couse trust me i realy want to race you bad since you live so close to me, and if your bike isnt running propper i feel the need to help you out so it will be an even race, right? lol
 
#24 ·
ok all this l1 l2 and so on is great but it gets confusing.. let's simplify things here...loosen the nuts the way you always do... now just like when you work on a regular bicycle grab the wheel with your hand and pull it back... now the slack is out of the chain... while pulling the wheel with one hand and with the other hand start tightening you nuts again.. leave your axle bolt loose still....now once the other nuts are tight start turning the wheel with you hand and watch where the sprocket teeth are lined up in the chain the teeth should be in the center of the chain if you notice that the teeth are off some then adjust the nut at the back... this will pull the wheel to one side and line your teeth/sprocket up...... once you are happy with everything just go head and tighten the nuts on the axle and your done....
 

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