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Hey guys, dumb question...but i just had an X2 pocket bike that was given to me repaired recently. (they just had to install the new igition switch, put the wires back together, they installed a new pull start, battery, and new carb). It ran for about a week or a little more. But was only driven 3 or 4 times and for like 10 mins each time. (just to let a few people try it). It ran fine. Then yesterday i tried to start it and the ignition start wouldn't start it, nor would the pull start. I figured maybe the battery so i charged it, no luck. put in more gas with the correct mixture...no luck. was told by the tech that when it's "cold" to push the primer button a few times and also try putting the choke up...still, won't start. Nothing happened to it. It had only been like 4 days since we last drove it and it's not like we got all crazy with it. Just to go up the street with it.

I was told by the tech dude on the phone (the shop that fixed it) to try spraying just a quick spray of starter fluid up under the front by the carburetor...he said i'll see 3 or 4 holes or something ride under the front. I see many areas with some holes. So i have no idea where he's talking about. The shop is now closed for the day. Any one have a picture they can show me where these holes are exactly? This carb as the primer button on it as i mentioned.

Thanks!
 

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But who prays for Satan?
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Up into the air, Then yell out "**** you Al Gore" just kidding.

Take off the air filter, spray it right into the Carburetor, but...

Just a dab "SHOULD" do you, too much and the engine might "Blow Up" !

NaSa <---- J/K it's me Nicky!!!! ;):thumbsup:

Hey guys, dumb question...but i just had an X2 pocket bike that was given to me repaired recently. (they just had to install the new igition switch, put the wires back together, they installed a new pull start, battery, and new carb). It ran for about a week or a little more. But was only driven 3 or 4 times and for like 10 mins each time. (just to let a few people try it). It ran fine. Then yesterday i tried to start it and the ignition start wouldn't start it, nor would the pull start. I figured maybe the battery so i charged it, no luck. put in more gas with the correct mixture...no luck. was told by the tech that when it's "cold" to push the primer button a few times and also try putting the choke up...still, won't start. Nothing happened to it. It had only been like 4 days since we last drove it and it's not like we got all crazy with it. Just to go up the street with it.

I was told by the tech dude on the phone (the shop that fixed it) to try spraying just a quick spray of starter fluid up under the front by the carburetor...he said i'll see 3 or 4 holes or something ride under the front. I see many areas with some holes. So i have no idea where he's talking about. The shop is now closed for the day. Any one have a picture they can show me where these holes are exactly? This carb as the primer button on it as i mentioned.

Thanks!
 

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But where is that exactly? Do you have a picture? Is it the black square-looking box that i unscrew off? The tech guy said spray it through some holes...is it better to spray through the holes or take the cover off and spray directly ON the air filter? or....?? And a picture would help lol Sorry i dont know much at all about this stuff. :confused:

Thanks!
 

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But who prays for Satan?
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But where is that exactly? Do you have a picture? :confused:

Thanks!
I don't even know what type of bike you have!

I'm tired, Don't you have a Camera somewhere to take a picture or two
for poor old NaSa?!?!?!

Please!

Thanks! :p:thumbsup:
 

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Did you try changing the sparkplug and readjusting the carb...............?

NGK BPM6A gapped to .030"

Make sure the carb mounting screws are tight...They tend too loosen up at times

Theres a lowspeed and a highspeed needle on the carb......

The highspeed needle is on the side of the carb,,Factory setting is 1 1/2 turns out...

The lowspeed needle is in the pic.............Its set with epoxy to prevent the setting from wandering and must be re-epoxied with 1-2 hour set epoxy before adjusting............factory setting is 1 1/2 turns out but on a broken-in engine youll want to go 1 5/8 1 3/4 turns out...............



After you get it starting up within 3-5 pulls then prop the rear wheel off the ground and crack the throttle wide open to tune in the high speed needle .....

After tuning set the idle,, take it for a test ride;-retune if necessary and then let the epoxy fully cure



Heres the holes the tech spoke of.................To see how good he is ask where the lowspeed adjust needle is.................Good Luck



.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well great then I guess the "holes" I figured he was talking about were correct. Here at the pics....







I sprayed a quick spray of the starter fluid into the holes...turned the key, and tried to start it, and it still wouldn't start. It's hard for me to try and start it myself with the pull start because sometimes it needs the throttle turned and i can't do both at once. I'll have to try that when my roommate gets home. But still...it should start with the ignition start. It was working FINE one day then just stopped. I dont get it.

Cam2 - I have not tried changing the spark plug or readjusting the carb. #1 and wouldn't think it would be that complicated because it's a brand new carb and was all working fine. It's only been 2 weeks like i said and only drove it a few times for just a few minutes at a time. Like up the street.

I know absolutely nothing about working on these things lol...but i'm trying to learn. What does "NGK BPM6A gapped to .030" " mean? And all the adjusting you mentioned, making sure the mounting screws are tight (i don't know where those are exactly)...and the high/low speed needles...what do you mean by 1 1/2 turns out? Obviously i'm sure you mean how many turns it is, but, is that from the tightest out? Or loosest, and 1 1/2 turns to tighten it?

Also, when you said "The lowspeed needle is in the pic.............Its set with epoxy to prevent the setting from wandering and must be re-epoxied with 1-2 hour set epoxy before adjusting............factory setting is 1 1/2 turns out but on a broken-in engine youll want to go 1 5/8 1 3/4 turns out.............."

Epoxy is a glue resin right? So you're saying to loosen it, add more epoxy, let it set for 1-2 hours, then set the turns as stated above? If i let it set first won't that prevent me from being able to adjust it? Plus, if it's all brand new, why should this all even be the problem?

I'm sorry....this is all new to me. I could easily take it back to the shop but...would rather try and do what i can on my own first.

Thanks in advance....
 

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Nice looking bike.................

Sounds like you have no spark and may have either a faulty coil,,rusty coil or bad sparkplug.......The sparkplugs the simplest to do and costs $4-5 bucks.......NGK BPM6A

If you still get no spark Id remove the pickup coil and clean up any metal chips or rust on both the coil thongs and the magnets...

When you reassemble you position the magnets at 12 o'clock...lay over the magnets a .020" thick business card....If its a thin .010 business card double it and dont use the folded edge under the thongs....Position the coil onto the card and magnets,,add screws,,tighten screws and remove busineess card.............Nick our forum admin has a thread on how to do it.....

Theres a wire coming through the fancover that has a two wire plug on it......disconnect that and see if your bike will start with ether..........


Just because a carb is new doesnt mean its good or set right...factory settings are 1 1/2 turns out each needle...........My mildest modded x1 has the lsn set to 2 turns out and the hsn to 1 turn out just to get an idea.........A fully broken-in bike will require more fuel for start up.......Thats where tuning the carb to perform like it should comes into play...Setting a carb and tuning one is two different things..............

The brass slotted screw is set with epoxy to prevent it from wandering.............when you readjust it to get the bike to start-up right you must re-epoxy it or vibes will make the needle spin and youll lose your lsn setting...........

All my X1's,,Twin engine harleybike and other small engine pumper carb bikes all start within 3-5 pullstarts with the primer pumped 8x and the choke set.........

Its basically alot easier to do than explain and if you do try to tackle it youll find it out.............Good luck
 

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In one of your pics the metal return line itself on the carb body appears to have a kink in it......Thats not good if it is and may stop the carb from priming...........
 

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Discussion Starter #10
looking at the picture, which line are you referring to?


Also, just a note, when i try to start with the start button, if i hadn't tried in a few hours it'll make a very quick, short, rumble sound, almost like the sound when you're pull starting it, but for literally a fraction of a second...very quick, then after a few attempts it will sometimes make this annoying buzzing noise....does this help?
 

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if you gotta use starting fluid then you really need to address the main problem or you motor isnt gonna last
carb issue, gas delivery or air leak...somethings up
on my bike, my choke doesnt do andthing, i turn the throttle adjustment till it idles high enough
what is you oil ratio, heat could be hurting you
 

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Discussion Starter #13
the sticker on the bike says the ratio is 20:1...i think it's only a half gallon tank. The shop that fixed it and got it running a couple weeks ago said mix a gallon gas can with 4 oz oil (yes i used correct 2 stroke oil)...then i mixed it and poured it in. tank was already full when i first got it back. When it suddenly wouldn't start there wasn't much gas left, but enough for the tubes to still be in the gas....but i put in more gas anyway just in case that was the problem.

The battery is brand new....could that still be the problem? I tried charging it..light turned green on the charger after only about an hour or 2 (prior to that it went about a week and a half to 2 weeks before charging it)...how long does the battery last and how long does it need to charge for? Plus, wouldn't none of the lights work if the batter was weak? Cause they all turn on.

Here's a shot of the wire you said could be kinked...i looked at it and it doesn't look kinked. I also added a couple others of another connection that i'm not sure if it looks ok or not.







i can't upload an audio file...i don't think...if you can i dont know what format it has to be in. but i recorded the sound it makes....i can send to a phone # if you'd like...
 

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Ninja Racer
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the stock china batteries are really bad, they will run lights but not have enough amps (butt) to turn the motor
id take it to walmart and match the size up close, its a win win for you really but its hard to spend money on 'toys'
 

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Ninja Racer
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i dont know but the one i got from the store will go 3 days without charging and motor doesnt charge it at all
i use a battery tender, money well spent
 

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The Battery tender wont overcharge and kill your battery like the cheapo chinese one that comes with most bikes...........

You can get that one you have load tested at walmart to make sure that didnt happen if you used the cheapo charger........

 

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Id try changing the sparkplug and disconnecting the killswitch and going from there...........Its not uncommon for a coil to go bad out of nowhere....
 

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Ninja Racer
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its really either fuel or spark in most cases
spark is easy to locate the bad part
 

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Well great then I guess the "holes" I figured he was talking about were correct. Here at the pics....
Watch the episode of Seinfeld, where they talk about "The Holes" too funny!

You need to hang out with US EVEN MORE!

Nicky. ;):thumbsup:
 
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