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Ok, i know these are cheap labor bikes so a question about quality is really meant in a relative respect.

My new cag has more wobbly wheels than my first one. Is it a hopeless permanency or can i tweak it some how? Or have the local place i bought it from switch it out?

The front wheel may not be a problem as much as i worry about the rear wheel because chain path (translating to the tightness) is more affected.

Any thoughts?
 

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Most CAGS rear sprockets are lopsided and get tight at certain points in the rotation anyways so unless its REALLY bad i wouldn't worry about it.
 

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Going wobbly wobbly wobbly? Then you should get a steering damper... Back tire going wobbly wobbly wobbly, can't help you there.
 

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my rear sprockets, well F'd, didnt do anything to it but Id adjust the chain tension, and ge it where I want it, then the bike moves a few inches and the chain is tight, loosen it and go another few and its too loose. I ended up just putting it at a point to where when it got its tightedst it was getting close to too tight and when it got its loosest it was getting close to too loose. would a new sprocket be the fix, onen from a reliable place of course, not stock replacment?
 

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blueR1cag said:
my rear sprockets, well F'd, didnt do anything to it but Id adjust the chain tension, and ge it where I want it, then the bike moves a few inches and the chain is tight, loosen it and go another few and its too loose. I ended up just putting it at a point to where when it got its tightedst it was getting close to too tight and when it got its loosest it was getting close to too loose. would a new sprocket be the fix, onen from a reliable place of course, not stock replacment?
My theory on the warped sprockets and rotors on our CAGs is this. Most of them ARE NOT warped. Instead, I contend that the mounting surface on the rim itself is uneven. I thought I had a warped rotor, so I ordered a new one. Upon arrival I laid the new rotor and my old one on glass, and guess what, the old one was straighter than the new one, even though both were really straight.

This led me to investigate and the mounting surface of my rim was visibly uneven. Due to this, when I tightened the rotor back on, I watched as the 'true' rotor was distorted as the bolts forced it to mate to the mounting surface. And if the individual mounting holes on the rim aren't misaligned, then the whole surface is angled inproperly, not being flat. So your rotor and sprocket could be straight (even mounted) but the whole damn contraption will be 'cockeyed!' I guess you could try grinding the surface flat, but sounds like more work (especially for rotor side), when you can just bend caliper brackets :).
 

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its not a warped sprocket issue or uneven mounting surface issue either.
The problem is that either the sprocket bolt holes or the bolt holes in the wheel are not centered. if it was an uneven mounting surface issue we would have chain coming off problems not the gets tight in certain spots problem.
 

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my neighbor spotted my problem. it is just that thers only 3 holes holding on the sprocjket and they arent "TIGHT FIT" around the bolts holing it on so there is slop in it, but just from running my bike it centered itself and now chain slack is equal all the way around.
 
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