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Discussion Starter #1
I have an X1 49cc bike. When I hold down the electric start the bike turns on but if you let go of the starter it shuts off. I read the rheas about adjusting the idle screws and tried that already and it still won't idle on its own. Cleaned the carb and fuel lines and nothing. What else should I do??
 

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Does your carb have 2 adjustable screws?
Some have 1, Some have 2 (one high speed + one low speed adjustment)

It starts with the starter... So it is pulling fuel and sparking.
What's your fuel mixture?
 

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Is it a used X1? or Brand new? Though brand new or not they sometimes come abit defective.
Try to start it with the idle screw or low speed screw all the way in, take care when screwing it in, hold the throttle wide open with the bike off and screw it in gently and don't tighten it to much just until it gets tight otherwise you will mess up the small threads. the reason to hold the throttle open is sometimes the slide can bend that screw on you when you screw it in all the way so hold it open and screw in that screw. Try to start it with the screw all the way in AND HOLD ON it will take off on you if you aren't holding onto it when you start it.
If it idles like that back it out 1 1/2 turns. If it still quits then you have a part somewere to clean or replace.
 

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The rubber pump diaphram my not be pumping enough gas is what sounds like. Choke systems might start it even if the carb is bad. Might need to adj. the low jet inside the brass ring on top.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The carb has two screws. One flat head one Phillips. Ones a regulaet screw and the over is a brass like bolt . I think my mixture is 50:1 last time a mixed a batch. I've screwed both in and out. All the way while it's on and nothing happened
 

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The rubber pump diaphram my not be pumping enough gas is what sounds like. Choke systems might start it even if the carb is bad. Might need to adj. the low jet inside the brass ring on top.
Sounds like he has said he has tried that though. Try to give him a starting point on it were it should run then he can fine tune it more if necessary.
Like for instance how I set idle screw, is start all the way in and back it out till its were I want it at. That way it is guaranteed to start for me and then be adjusted from there.
Instead of starting with the idle screw all the way out were it doesn't start and messing around with it.
 

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The Flat head one with a spring is the low speed adjustment. The other would be high speed.
The low speed is also idle, and it does slightly affect the high speed adjustment but not by much.
If the bike doesn't start with that low speed screw in all the way then you do have another issues either with not enough fuel, to much fuel or something letting in air somewere causing not enough fuel.
It isn't always the carb that goes, sometimes gaskets and the plastic manifold can break.
(take care with the low speed screw in all the way when it does start it will rev up and want to start driving itself make sure ur holding onto the bike inscase.)
 

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When cleaning the carb. Did you soak it then use a air compressor?
You'll need to blow out the passages and the jets with an air compressor after you soak them.
Don't soak rubber seals or gaskets they will get wrecked.

Any compressed air should work I guess an air compressor might be overkill. But soaking alone isn't enough.
 

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The rubber pump diaphram my not be pumping enough gas is what sounds like. Might need to adj. the low jet inside the brass ring on top.
This could be it.
That could be from something being still dirty. I don't think those carbs go as far as to have a pump speed/flow adjustment do they? A flow adjustment wouldn't make sense as the bike sucks the fuel its not meant to be shovelled fuel by a pump.
So a clogged passageway? or incorrect screw adjustment. or leaky gasket.
Leaky gasket could prevent enough fuel from being fed to the engine. Especially reed/manifold gasket it will suck air and not take fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I soaked it and then blew it out with canned air piece by piece and this was a month ago it ran fine until now all of a sudden. I put a new battery on it as well because it would die after holding the electric start down for so long
 

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Ok it should be clean enough to run.
EPR hasn't gotten back, He might be onto something with it not pumping enough fuel for the bike.
Choking would force some extra fuel but you wouldn't be able to ride the bike like that.
EPR - How would he increase pump flow? As I said I don't think these carbs have a adjustment for that. Not one that I see on my brand new pumper carb anyways. How abouts his fuel filter itself? clogged or backwards filter installation.

Have you tried with the idle screw out 1 1/2 turn (from all the way in) and the high speed out 2 turns (from all the way in). And with/without choke? if it has manual choke.

Spark, Fuel, Compression = It will run. Perseverance is key.
My last mishap with my bike starting then idling down and dieing was all from a cracked intake manifold.
 

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Ok it should be clean enough to run.
EPR hasn't gotten back, He might be onto something with it not pumping enough fuel for the bike.
Choking would force some extra fuel but you wouldn't be able to ride the bike like that.
EPR - How would he increase pump flow? As I said I don't think these carbs have a adjustment for that. Not one that I see on my brand new pumper carb anyways. How abouts his fuel filter itself? clogged or backwards filter installation.

Have you tried with the idle screw out 1 1/2 turn (from all the way in) and the high speed out 2 turns (from all the way in). And with/without choke? if it has manual choke.

Spark, Fuel, Compression = It will run. Perseverance is key.
My last mishap with my bike starting then idling down and dieing was all from a cracked intake manifold.
 

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Sweet Cam2.
Uhm on mine right there its just white.
It does seem like I can peel off whatever substance is there. Is this normal that a screw would be hidden?
Mines brand new and works fine as it was from the store but looking at your picture and mine it looks like my screw is covered up.


EDIT; Curiosity got the better of me, I figured it wouldn't hurt so I poked at it and it was some sort of waxy substance. And indeed it was hiding a screw :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I've tried it with both the choke on and off, also the throttle cable was originally loose by an inch or two and I've always just had it taped to keep it tight, could this be anything
 

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I've tried it with both the choke on and off, also the throttle cable was originally loose by an inch or two and I've always just had it taped to keep it tight, could this be anything
On top of the carb is an adjuster screw and there will be one on the throttle aswell that will remove the slack.......

Turn the LSN screw 1/2 turn outwards to richen the carb and retry.......You may have to bump up the idle adjust screw to compensate;-you may not.Good luck
 

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So CAM2 Im still woundering why Tebow_Man might have to do that adjustment.
His bike was working for him at his current settings, He says it worked till it sat for abit then now hes trying to use it again with no success.

CAM2 what about something still being gunked up from old oil stopping full flow of fuel? He says its been soaked and blown out which shoulda solved that though.
Id figure his bike should start with its settings since it was previously running on those settings.
 

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So CAM2 Im still woundering why Tebow_Man might have to do that adjustment.
His bike was working for him at his current settings, He says it worked till it sat for abit then now hes trying to use it again with no success.

CAM2 what about something still being gunked up from old oil stopping full flow of fuel? He says its been soaked and blown out which shoulda solved that though.
Id figure his bike should start with its settings since it was previously running on those settings.
Dude theres tens and tens of posts explaining that but when you life in the fuel injection age you get awefully spoiled having a computer adjust your engines tune for temp conditions..........Grab a computer and go over an EFI map and see how many tuning changes are made in a 50 mile run.......

Understand this..............When the weather is cooler the air gets thirstier!!!!!!!!......When the weather warms up to where the carb was adjusted to the bike will work as intended ...............If you dont want to wait you have to adjust it..............Understand now??..If not use the search feature...

Like I said this topic has been covered atleast 2-3 dozen times but I know its alot more...........Every winter/spring we get this same problem/question atleast 2-3 times a week...........
 

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As far as the comment about the carb being dirty..................................

Whats faster and easier in diagnosing a problem and knowing the actual problem plus waste the least time doing it...........................[question below]

Removing the carb and opening it up then realizing it just needed a tune or trying to tune first then finding out and know that the carb is actually dirty?
 
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