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Ok it should be clean enough to run.
EPR hasn't gotten back, He might be onto something with it not pumping enough fuel for the bike.
Choking would force some extra fuel but you wouldn't be able to ride the bike like that.
EPR - How would he increase pump flow? As I said I don't think these carbs have a adjustment for that. Not one that I see on my brand new pumper carb anyways. How abouts his fuel filter itself? clogged or backwards filter installation.

Have you tried with the idle screw out 1 1/2 turn (from all the way in) and the high speed out 2 turns (from all the way in). And with/without choke? if it has manual choke.

Spark, Fuel, Compression = It will run. Perseverance is key.
My last mishap with my bike starting then idling down and dieing was all from a cracked intake manifold.
 

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I've tried it with both the choke on and off, also the throttle cable was originally loose by an inch or two and I've always just had it taped to keep it tight, could this be anything
On top of the carb is an adjuster screw and there will be one on the throttle aswell that will remove the slack.......

Turn the LSN screw 1/2 turn outwards to richen the carb and retry.......You may have to bump up the idle adjust screw to compensate;-you may not.Good luck
 

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So CAM2 Im still woundering why Tebow_Man might have to do that adjustment.
His bike was working for him at his current settings, He says it worked till it sat for abit then now hes trying to use it again with no success.

CAM2 what about something still being gunked up from old oil stopping full flow of fuel? He says its been soaked and blown out which shoulda solved that though.
Id figure his bike should start with its settings since it was previously running on those settings.
Dude theres tens and tens of posts explaining that but when you life in the fuel injection age you get awefully spoiled having a computer adjust your engines tune for temp conditions..........Grab a computer and go over an EFI map and see how many tuning changes are made in a 50 mile run.......

Understand this..............When the weather is cooler the air gets thirstier!!!!!!!!......When the weather warms up to where the carb was adjusted to the bike will work as intended ...............If you dont want to wait you have to adjust it..............Understand now??..If not use the search feature...

Like I said this topic has been covered atleast 2-3 dozen times but I know its alot more...........Every winter/spring we get this same problem/question atleast 2-3 times a week...........
 

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As far as the comment about the carb being dirty..................................

Whats faster and easier in diagnosing a problem and knowing the actual problem plus waste the least time doing it...........................[question below]

Removing the carb and opening it up then realizing it just needed a tune or trying to tune first then finding out and know that the carb is actually dirty?
 

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Id figure his bike should start with its settings since it was previously running on those settings.
Most bikes will and run on the choke only and operate with the choke half open and die when the choke is fully open or the throttle is cracked....

Reason why is when the choke flap is closed it is blocking off more air and introducing more fuel when the engine is cold but when the flap is opened it should run as intended...

If the engine pitch gets higher thats a leanout condition...That means you need more fuel...........click on video below

 
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