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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Bike is a R32 Viper (X15) 110cc, it has spark and fuel filter is half full of fuel. Battery is fully charged and the bike turns over no problem but wont start. Carb is newly cleaned and fuel lines are new as well as fuel filter. My fuel line after the filter and going into the carb has an upswing so may need to cut a bit off to level it off or will the fuel pull into the carb still? No pump on these or primer bulb as I've noticed.

One issue is the ignition is on in the "off" position and off in the position to the right of "off" which is not labelled but has a circle icon. Thought wire connectors were backward so swapped them but no turning over or lights at all that way.
 

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Just because you see a spark does it mean its strong enough under pressure inside the cylinder to fire the mix properly.......

First things I would check is the ohms reading on the stator.....It takes 5 mins with a digital multimeter to do...reading off the red with black stripe [+] aswell as the green [-]at the 2000kohm setting should be 500 +/- 50kohms [450-550kohms]

Next after that would be to do a compression check to make sure the valves arent bent.............

Go over the carb once again....open the bottom screw on the carb bowl to see iF theres gas in the bowl......

put a brand new sparkplug NGK C7HSA...make sure the gap is .027"

If you have to remove the carb and take off the bowel again perform the float restrictor tab removal mod on it by removing the restrictor tab from the bottom of the bowl with a dremel.............

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Checked the stator at the 2K ohms setting on meter (dont have a 2000k setting) with battery connected but ignition off and it reads .365 so 365ohms then?

Fuel is in the float bowl.

Carb mod for the tab is done.

If valves were bent would it turn over smoothly still? Mine turns over smoothly with what sounds like a good exhaust note.
 

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Checked the stator at the 2K ohms setting on meter (dont have a 2000k setting) with battery connected but ignition off and it reads .365 so 365ohms then?



Fuel is in the float bowl.

Carb mod for the tab is done.

If valves were bent would it turn over smoothly still? Mine turns over smoothly with what sounds like a good exhaust note.
365 ohms isn't good....450-550 ohms is the range,...

A new stator is like $30 bux shipped....you just gotta note the plug type to get the right one..

An engine with a bent valve would turn over pretty smooth...it just won't build enough compression to fire up...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
365 ohms isn't good....450-550 ohms is the range,...

A new stator is like $30 bux shipped....you just gotta note the plug type to get the right one..

An engine would turn over pretty smooth...it won't build enough compression to fire up...
Will order a new stator then.

Any idea on the ignition being reversed?("off" is on and cant take key out, "on" key is removeable but no lights or turning over).

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Discussion Starter #7
Reverse the keyswitch plugs...
Tried it twice but will try again.

Bought a compression tester today. What should the reading be if its good?

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Discussion Starter #9
No lower than like 65-70 psi to still be able to run....Those engines are like 7.2 - 7.8:1 compression bone stock
Need to find a 18mm to 10mm adaptor cause tester only came w/ 12mm. Pulled spar plug and no fuel seems to be on the end. Carb float bowl is dripping slightly from run off hose piece.


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Discussion Starter #10
Here's another pic of the float bowl drain where the gas is leaking :
Needle valve not seated or float needs to be adjusted is what a search turned up for the reason it could be leaking but I cleaned carb and put everything back as it was. Should there be a longer hose attached here and where should it be routed if so?
 

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Here's another pic of the float bowl drain where the gas is leaking :
Needle valve not seated or float needs to be adjusted is what a search turned up for the reason it could be leaking but I cleaned carb and put everything back as it was. Should there be a longer hose attached here and where should it be routed if so?
Theres either foreign trash from ethanol on the needletip or brass seat or the float was knocked out of calibration...

factory float setting is 10*.............

since youll have to reopen the bowl youll want to do the float restrictor tab removal mod by removing the EPA imposed problem with a dremel from the bottom of the floatbowl...

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Theres either foreign trash from ethanol on the needletip or brass seat or the float was knocked out of calibration...

factory float setting is 10*.............

since youll have to reopen the bowl youll want to do the float restrictor tab removal mod by removing the EPA imposed problem with a dremel from the bottom of the floatbowl...

Good Luck
Would this be the reason it wouldnt start since there seemed to be no fuel on sparkplug when i pulled it?

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Would this be the reason it wouldnt start since there seemed to be no fuel on sparkplug when i pulled it?

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I don't think so....you did a test of the stator and ithe reading came sub par....chances are your meter could be wrong but you can calibrate it by putting both probes in a glass of water...the gauge on the meter should be 0.00 instead of - - - -

Usually with a dying stator that still sparks it will still ignite the fuel slightly but won't run the engine...

If you pull the sparkplug wire and crank it it should get wet....

All's you have to do to see if a good engine with good stator will fire up is to put fuel directly into the cylinder...

If it runs the float bowl is set wrong..if it backfires really loud or does nothing you need a new stator...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Finally got this running today after not having time the last 2 1/2 years due to other projects. Float was fine, stator fine although reads 351 ohms. Cleaned the carb out again including jets, (syrupy gas/ethanol in the float bowl from sitting) and reset the screws - the air/fuel screw was all the way in so not sure if that was stopping it from starting. Sanded the starter and coil grounds although they didn't look too bad, and put some 94 octane gas in with 0% ethanol (which I will only use from now on). Fired up pretty much right away and it was a beautiful sound! A bit of black smoke the first few minutes as the engine burnt off the fogging oil I had put in while storing the bike. Started a few more times without issue and set the idle.
 

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That's a turn signal clicker. Green usually means ground on those things more than likely that plug is for the electronic blinker box for the bike model with the LED lighting your bike clearly has the incandescent lighting!!!

That's the beauty of the Chinese wireing plugs that don't go to anything and plugs that are the same let's not forget plugs that have a red wire that plugs into a yellow wire then my favorite 6 wires twisted together and if your lucky it will have a dab of solder holding it together with some China electrical tape then the tape falls off and it looks like someone hacked up the wireing but it was like that from the factory <--- very common with the green ground wires... Tons of bikes have ended up at the dump because of the bad China wireing...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That's a turn signal clicker. Green usually means ground on those things more than likely that plug is for the electronic blinker box for the bike model with the LED lighting your bike clearly has the incandescent lighting!!!

That's the beauty of the Chinese wireing plugs that don't go to anything and plugs that are the same let's not forget plugs that have a red wire that plugs into a yellow wire then my favorite 6 wires twisted together and if your lucky it will have a dab of solder holding it together with some China electrical tape then the tape falls off and it looks like someone hacked up the wireing but it was like that from the factory <--- very common with the green ground wires... Tons of bikes have ended up at the dump because of the bad China wireing...

The previous owner stored the bike outside at one time as well so wiring harness labels are mostly missing, and the plastic connectors are brittle - would like to find a supplier for the connectors as many of mine have broken tabs and even worse a few with cracked casing.


Have another question - whats the 2 prong metal tab connector for on the front disc brakes? Took it off a couple of years ago and now don't see a connector to attach to it :
 

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Discussion Starter #20
That's the brake light/brake safety start

So I must have a connecter for it somewhere then? Strange as I only have the 2 pin connecter I asked about previously thats not hooked up to anything.
 
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