I domt know that particular setup but if you went A/F at 1.5-2 turns out, it should run. Maybe 2 1/2 turns. But it should run with what I previously said about the spray.
X18 22mm carburetor tuning HELP
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Yes I checked everything is good I had it crank before and just needed to fine tune the carb. I'm a dummy I changed the screw turns on both and now can't find where it needs to be at for the pz22mm carb. Everything is brand new btw
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Atv runner I will try 2 to 2 1/2 turns for A/F. Keep idle at 3 turns. Where should I spray the starter fluid in the Spark plug area or in the Carb?
I would through the carb, if it runs the engine will run no matter what unless the carb can't deliver the fuel. Best trick in the book for checking the running condition.
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Gotcha ima go through it and see what's going on and go back to the A/F and Idle this time I'm not gonna mess with it once I get it right it was so much to go through from it sitting since 2009 and when I got it started idk why I changed the tuning on the carb I will write it down again. I just got happy to see it come alive again after so long and wanted to change other stuff as orders were coming in
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More than likely it is not the carburetor because even without the carburetor on the engine at all it will still run off of starting fluid through the intake manifold.
People say starting fluid is bad for them but it's not I have run them for straight 30 seconds off of starter fluid with no carburetor on them at all.
Just use short burst sprays to keep it going
If you can't get it by taking the carburetor straight off of the bike and spraying starting fluid into the intake manifold then you have an ignition problem either the CDI box is delaying spark the hall sensor is confused you have a bad coil the shear pin on the crankshaft has failed and now the drum is in the wrong position or it jumped timing.
Cracked rings chipped or bent valves blown head gaskets will all show up on a compression test for the most part.
Broken timing chains and a flat cam will more than likely show up as higher than normal compression.
People say starting fluid is bad for them but it's not I have run them for straight 30 seconds off of starter fluid with no carburetor on them at all.
Just use short burst sprays to keep it going
If you can't get it by taking the carburetor straight off of the bike and spraying starting fluid into the intake manifold then you have an ignition problem either the CDI box is delaying spark the hall sensor is confused you have a bad coil the shear pin on the crankshaft has failed and now the drum is in the wrong position or it jumped timing.
Cracked rings chipped or bent valves blown head gaskets will all show up on a compression test for the most part.
Broken timing chains and a flat cam will more than likely show up as higher than normal compression.
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I will give that a try then I just wanted to make sure that's a good to do thing. I changed everything in the bikes and only rode them 3 or 4 tanks full I had them since 2008. If the A/F and Idle isn't set at certain point it will not crank either tho I will try the amount of turns yall mentioned and use starter fluid.
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No sir. Nothing is wrong with the bikes I took great care of them and reworked them as well. I just gotta get the carb back set thats all
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Heard. I'm gonna try that today or definitely tommrow. Wish me luck I been wanting to build them since I was in 9th grade now it's time to fine tune them before the new motor build. I will keep yall updated and post videos on my Youtube:AnythingWithMotors
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