Pocketbike Forum banner
1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok so sunday i drove 2hrs and bought an x18 for $200... its a 2007, pretty decent condition, runs good. my question is my cousin also has a 2007 x18.. we tore both bikes apart, same everything! both air filter metal plates removed, both carb slides open all the way, same pipe, same sprockets.. only diff is i put a ngk plug and a car spark plug wire and a blue racing cdi on mine and he blows right by me and keeps pulling.. i put a gps on mine and it tops out WOT at 37mph on flat. i weigh about 205lbs and my cousin prob 10-15lbs more then me.. i dnt understand *** is going on... help plz!
 

·
The 2-Cycle DocToR
Joined
·
222 Posts
Maybe he didn't tell you that he has some NOS hooked up :)

..on a serious note though, he has to have something you don't. Have you hopped on his bike and see what it topped at with u on it? There should not be this kind of difference Even if his was slightly modded.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i havent used the gps on his, but his is bone stock.. and rattles like a mofo when its topped out, either some of the plastics r loose or his motor mounts.. but im stumped on how slow mine is. stock carb,filter.exhaust.. jus doesnt make since.

im also wondering whats the best setup. like bang for my buck. im using it to ride around town, even back n forth to work, which is like a 10-15min ride depending on traffic. tlked to a few of my cop buddies and showed em the bike and asked them if i was straight riding it around and they all said as long as i got headlights tail n signals and not being stupid running lights stop signs or one ways im straight, my goal is 55-60 mark? i mean i can hit almost 40 now WOT topped out and i dnt wanna do tht cause i know driving around WOT topped out wit the high revs for long times isnt good for the motor. id like to cruise around doing 40 and be able to crack the throttle and take off if id like. jus wonding wht would be my best mods with out going to crazy. already planning on modding the stock pipe, 22mm carb n filter, fuel lines and tank output, better coil and wire.. jus dnt know wht coil/wire and wht sprockets to go with.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
21,742 Posts
You need to mod and upgrade the bike,,,you need to

get rid of the stock intake,,,make a velocity stack out of a PVC fitting and add a foam hp style airfilter

upgrade the fuel lines/filter to 1/4"

mod the carb or get a 22mm carb w/jetkit

get a matching intake or taperbore the stock intake to work

do a homemade headbreather kit

Install the blue aluminum anodized $20 racing CDI w/ supercoil kit from ebay

Uncork the exhaust

Do the hp wire mod to the supercoil

Check valve lash and readjust valves if necessary

Change the oil,,,,Castrol 4T 4 Stroke 10w/40 motorcycle engine oil.... 3/4 of a qt max crankcase capacity

Change the sparkplug...NGK CR7HSA gapped between .023"-.027"

Get a 28 tooth rear sprocket and a 16 tooth front sprocket...........

Mod the stock carb by removing the float restrictor tab and rejetting it so you can tune-in the power...........

After that you will be seeing speeds betwen 60-65mph...........Good Luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
@CAM ur the best bro,

few quiestions.. i already installed the blue cdi, 6 pin plug, only has 5 pins tho... doesnt feel like it did nething at all... i was looking on ebay and one listing said something abouot ac and dc system and to make sure i ordered the correct one,,, "Another test is if the headlights turn on without the engine running, (with just the key on), it is a DC system. In the AC system the headlight requires the engine to be running. Another indication is, if the engine will only run with a battery it is DC. If it will run without a battery, it is a AC system.
Please check wheather you need the AC fired CDI or DC fired CDI for your bike before ordering.

ok my H/L turns on with the key w/o the bike running and my bike will run w/o a battery, so im confused..

also, velocity stack? like extend the intake to the front of the bike like make a ram air effect?

homemade head breather? wht put a lil ait filter on tht nipple on the case? like the filter youd put on the valve cover of a car when u install a cold ait intake?

ok valve lash? soo lost on tht one...
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
21,742 Posts
@CAM ur the best bro,​


few quiestions.. i already installed the blue cdi, 6 pin plug, only has 5 pins tho... doesnt feel like it did nething at all... i was looking on ebay and one listing said something abouot ac and dc system and to make sure i ordered the correct one,,, "Another test is if the headlights turn on without the engine running, (with just the key on), it is a DC system. In the AC system the headlight requires the engine to be running. Another indication is, if the engine will only run with a battery it is DC. If it will run without a battery, it is a AC system.
Please check wheather you need the AC fired CDI or DC fired CDI for your bike before ordering.

ok my H/L turns on with the key w/o the bike running and my bike will run w/o a battery, so im confused..

also, velocity stack? like extend the intake to the front of the bike like make a ram air effect?

homemade head breather? wht put a lil ait filter on tht nipple on the case? like the filter youd put on the valve cover of a car when u install a cold ait intake?

ok valve lash? soo lost on tht one...

The bikes have a solid state charging system.....The CDI you have is the right one.......The reason why you dont feel a difference is because you havent done any tests and also havent retuned the bike too.......

Everytime you make a change to the way its made totally stock you must alter the tuning to compensate...This is done by tweaking the carb adjustments til the next size jet is needed to feed the need..........

You dont tune it...you wont feel it.........take the stock CDI and put it back in....

take a video camera and point it at the rearof the bike.........rev the bike 10-15 times at all levels,,let it idle,,then punch it to 3/4 throttle from deadstill idle a few times...............

Put the race CDI back in,,,turn the air fuel mix screw 1/4 turn counterclockwise,,,set the c-clip on the mainjet needle 1 notch lower then redo test if the engine is running good............

Then as a 3rd comparison test put the stock CDI back in again and retest the same way again

Put the Race CDI back-in and give the bike a test ride and really wind it out

Watch all 3 vids to see the differences in the way it runs.........

This vid was taken in 40 degree weather............



Theres threads on the homemade headbreather mod.........just put headbreather mod in the search box and check out the threads........



velocity stack............

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts

·
The 2-Cycle DocToR
Joined
·
222 Posts
Honestly REPO, it's all about personal preference..what works for one guy might not fit another riders style.. I personally haven't ran either one of these but I think you should go with what YOU feel is right for your bike... Other members here are from different parts of the states (world) so what works good in New York, ain't gonna work good in CA, you dig?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
24,145 Posts
Most of PBUs stuff is over price, the Cag-L7 billet intake and rear gears are great though. On eBay I got billet alum rectangle cooler, the steel lines and the alum plate that bolts to the side of the head for about $55 total.
That PBU blue oil tube is no good in my view. You can make your own breather w/ a double female cable TV connector drilled out. CAM2 has a post about it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
@ mechanic, I hear yea bro, jus trying to get some input on parts I been loyoking at.. trying to build a bike to cruise around with thts got a bit of [email protected]$ when I need it..

@epr, jus wondering whts the best parts instead of buying something and it not doing nething for me. I seen tht oil cooler on ebay from china.. most likely getting tht one.. but I been searching the forums like cam said about the headbreather mod and haven't found nething. Also jus wondering wht exhaust I should do.. dnt want the bike stupid loud, a lil louder so the bike is noticable but mostly for power gains.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
24,145 Posts
I went to PB Parts in Florida, online and bought an X12 HP side exhaust for $69, and got free shipping & no tax with $100 or more order, so make a list. My lower body is cut off and had to make a few mods but, its a Rat Bike now,lol. The X18 HP pipe was like $189, so I picked the $69 one, has an alum muffler, it's very light compared to the stock one.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yea, see I didn't know parts were interchangable like tht.. I figred diff frames the pipes wouldn't fit ad I dnt really have machinery readly availablpe to do mods.. I all have either a x15 or x22 rolling frame I bought for $50.. I'm pretty sure the motor is seized being I hooked up a batt and tahe stater clicks but motor doesn't turn over.. ruled out the starter being bad cause I can't even budge the kick start.. so I'm figuring gotta rip it apart to rebuild the motorp, might as well do a big bore kit.. gonna use tht bike as a stunter ne wayz.. but thts another project lol
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
24,145 Posts
It sounds Great, like a Ducati or a 250cc one lung Triumph. Has a real deep thunder sound,lol. It touches the body, at one point so I folded a piece of alum foil and put rubber steel washers between the frame the body/seat and the foil between the pipe and body.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Can some1 help me..I have a x18 2010, drove it for acouple mins, now when I press the brake or clutch in, the electric starter kicks in.. so now when I press the clutch in the bike trys to start even when its already started can't even drive it cause I don't wana ruin the starter.. even when I press the back brake the electric starter kick on..
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
24,145 Posts
You probably have a wire short inside the electrics on your handle bars. There are 2 switches that make you pull the front brake or clutch in before it will let the starter turn. Sounds like the switch is shorted there. I disabled both mine, you can see the wires coming out of the clutch handle housing on the clutch and front master cylinder on the bars. Take them off on both sides and tie them the wires together, so the starter will go without pulling anything.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
21,742 Posts
Can some1 help me..I have a x18 2010, drove it for acouple mins, now when I press the brake or clutch in, the electric starter kicks in.. so now when I press the clutch in the bike trys to start even when its already started can't even drive it cause I don't wana ruin the starter.. even when I press the back brake the electric starter kick on..
sounds like the starter pushbutton is jambed...It comes apart with a tiny phillips screw from the throttle...to make sure thats the problem disconnect the pushbutton plug and pull the clutch
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top