Man, I literally just took that kit off my watchlist. I thought it was for the other style 2 stroke

 

Make sure to read the old school threads that's where you're going to get the real power producing information you need all you can get when you're building for the mini quads...

There is even a mod where you drill through the intake manifold and the reed block to pull vacuum from inside the crank case to get yes even more power out of this carburetor!!!

 

Well now you've sparked my curiosities... I'd love to see the thread about this mod you speak of!

 

It's going to take some time but digging through some old threads it's pretty obvious we were building for a lot and I mean a lot more power than what people are building for now!!!

A substantially lot more power!!!!

Picture of a real ADA racing head Vs China knock off check out the squish band and the actual coloring of the anodization is a real red tone!!! ( It's too bad we can't get these anymore )

I made shims to shim the wrist pin bearing on my dad's lath to keep the bearing from grenading!!!

Working through running ceramic bearings this was long before the cry baby budget building we were spending hundreds of dollars building $60 engines 😂...

 

Jesus Christ that's pretty remarkable! What do you figure you were capable of making power wise? Closer to double digits? In the teens? Have those things pulling wheelies? I love the cag motors, they're potent right out of the box, are rev happy and respond well to upgrades so I can only imagine what a fully customized cag could do...

 

About 7.5hp anything more and you won't be able to keep a clutch in it running them off of RC fuel is not cheap either.

The 44mm has 2.5 HP stock

The Euro engines do about 6.5 to 12 HP without wanting to blow up.

 

That's crazy for such a small engine, I can't imagine what that must be like to ride! Especially a little crotch rocket pocket bike, jesus... but that would be dope for a mini dirt bike or quad!

 

Sure would. 16hp is as much as I have seen on a w/c euro. Low as 4.2hp.
2.5hp out of a 44mm stock would be luck. About 2 is more accurate. 1.6-1.8hp out of the 40mm. But nonetheless a few tasteful mods double is easy on the cag engines.
If you are a guru, and can heavily modify these engines you can be up there again. But 4-4.5hp you will be very happy. At least for a while. 😁

 

16hp has a stock iame or cs watercooled engine.

 

What?? Iame?? I was only saying there is 16 horsepower euro engines out there. Not sure what you were trying to say here

 

During the peak of popularity it was fine you could build a few engines for maximum power and get enough guys/gals together to cone off a parking lot and have a stock, modified, and unlimited class and spend a day racing sometimes even Seattle PD would come around and enjoy the show...

Nowadays you can't even fire one up in your own yard without some Karen standing at the fence holding a phone with 911 on the line...

 

I guess you live in a horrible area. It's it's not legal around here but 911 does not show up every time we fire one up

 

Man, that would have been wild to have everyone out in the lot like that racing. I need to see if I can get something together out here happening.

 

I hate society today, I've had some neighbor call the cops because I was riding in the road in the complex I live in, which is usually next to no traffic. Cop showed up and questioned me and the bike. I explained it was fully electric and he was like oh okay, have fun! I purposely continued to ride it in the neighborhood to piss off whoever the crybaby was.

 

There is always people like that. Police like to pull me over a lot on my Electrics. Funny thing is mine are only supposed to be a Max of 20 mph in my area but they don't know when it looks stock that my next to does 24 or 25 mph. And they don't even know the right laws. Sometimes I have to educate them. And I do the same thing, ride by the Karen's over and over and over and over again. Eventually they'll get it that I'm doing nothing wrong. And then I take my gas bike by them. And if they don't like that I take my really loud car which is totally legal by them. That's all you got to do sometimes wake them up to the reality that they're wrong, and yet those were the people that were blownin off fireworks on the 4th of July at 12 a.m.. lol

 

iame is a brand of pocket bikes

 

Ah, my bad. Never heard of them

 

I've managed to find a kit like this, I noticed there is a hole in the manifold to set it up with the check valve etc. Will I need to drill a hole in the Reed block to suit???

 

Only if you have done heavy porting 98% of the time there is plenty of vacuum in front of the reed block to drive the pump

If you do decide to do the mod there is absolutely zero room for error you have to fill the Old Port with JB weld and then drill the New port well the glue is still soft using a drill press.

Like I said before this mod is really risky and gives you absolutely zero additional horsepower and should only be done if you can't get enough fuel when you back out the high-speed needle passed the spring the mod will also dramatically shorten the life of the pump inside the carburetor 😂.

I did this mod on my high torque mini quad engine that I built Then I only needed it because I did an anti para mod on the piston which tends to make it lose some vacuum then there really was no need because I had to detune the engine anyway because the stupid mini quad is a piece of junk and it speed wobbles all over the place at those speeds and gets really dangerous to ride lol

 

Cheers man, I just need the fuel check valve but I'll look around, it looks like a washer valve from a car tbh 😂

 

Anyone know where to find the non return valve for the walbro

 

Anyone know where to find the non return valve for the walbro View attachment 160714

That's a fuel filter and a vacume F the fuel filter acts as a mini tank so you don't have to return to the fuel tank 😉👍😏 I got both parts from O'Reilly Auto parts.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-autograde/hardware---fasteners/vacuum-caps---connectors/vacuum-connectors---f-s--tees---y-s/4df2a1881946/dorman-autograde-3-16-inch-hard-vacuum-f-connector/dag0/47356?pos=23

You can also use a vacuum T if you can't find a F

 

OK, I thought that came from the little air pipe in the carb to force fuel into the carb with a pulse from the carb etc.

 

I'm using my phone atm and the pages are jumping about and not loading correctly, I'll fire the laptop up later and read up on what was posted earlier in this chat about the working of the carb etc. My parcel came today but they sent a piston and barrel kit for a goped instead of the correct part

 

That's not how these carburetors work.

The carburetor pumps fuel all the time it is powered by a vacuum port inside the intake manifold.

Any of the fuel that it pumps that is not burnt is returned back to the fuel tank.

I did not want to drill a hole and run a return line all the way back to the tank for no reason at all when I can just have it simply returne to a closed loop.

It could use a one-way check valve but it works fine for me and does not affect the performance of the engine in any way.

 

Yeah that makes sense now, I've always dealt with float bowl type carbs on cars etc so this is a different way around fueling for me 😂

 

Finally got the walbro carb kit, obviously Chinese because the casting had a hole in the casting next to the fuel inlet.... Pouring fuel out of it 🤣🤣🤣 JB weld sorted that out. My only issue is the throttle sticks open as there isn't any return spring on the throttle body, I'll work something out today, but it's back to running good again and it seems to be easy enough to set up the fueling 👍

 

 

There is supposed to be a return spring with the kit that slides over the throttle cable and pushes against the throttle lever.

 

Definitely not one in the kit 😠 I'll get one from work maybe

 

And FYI, the bike is back on form again 👍👍👍

 

Mine didn't have a return spring. But, it does snap back closed on it's own without problem